As is true in many big countries, the Germans dub all foreign films. This often leads to hilarious discussions or guessing to discover which film hides behind a title such as Und sie wissen nicht was sie tun (Rebel Without a Cause)  Since my cradle stood in Amsterdam, I am not used to nor pleased with this phenomenon. But lacking sufficient time or snobbism to seek out the original, I recently saw Wilkommen bei den Sch’tis - the strikingly accurate translation of Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis. I went to see it in East Berlin’s former Cinema Palace: Kino International on Karl Marx Allee 33. To watch a movie here will undoubtedly satisfy your Eastern European inclinations.

After passing the entryway with its remarkable ceiling, the Honecker lounge located in the huge hall upstairs is definitely beyond imagination. With its large glass façade overlooking Karl Marx Allee, the dark parquet floor, the red furniture – the intrinsic beauty and memories of long-forgotten times make this place stunning. There is no need to see a movie, you can easily have just a drink.

However I came to see a movie, and after the advertising the blue velvet curtains closed dramatically only opening after the bell ringed. Suddenly a totally golden surface became visible recalling Barbie’s evening gown. This startled my darling M., who received his Jugendweihe (youth consecration) in this very hall and who explained to me that this was the original curtain.

Though I certainly was overwhelmed by Kino international, my favorite cinema remains High End on Oranienburger Str. 54-56 in Tacheles. Maybe it’s sheer laziness because I only have to cross the street and climb the stinky stairs, but I love relaxing in one of those wonderful big red sofas.

Go further: Watch movies on the waterfront in Paris...

Photo: Roman Lashkin

The first time I lived in Berlin (1997-2001) I started in Friedrichshain. Nowadays you’ll find in this quarter a mixture of students, young and creative, along with some desperately lost people. The apartment I lived in was on the third Hinterhof - two blocks of houses stood before my building absorbing all the light. Because I’d just left Paris – a city that’s famous for its luminosity - autumn in Berlin was giving me some very depressing thoughts. Could I survive all the grey, the sweeping wind blowing directly from Moscow on Frankfürter Allee and those mean elderly people barking at me because a public wastebasket was supposed to be private… When the ostalgie threatened to kill me, I would flee to the brilliant glittering word of KaDeWe - the Kaufhaus des Westens: a monument to the world of capitalism.

Pulver

Now on my second stay (since 2006), I don’t require the KaDeWe anymore. If I want to spoil myself I go for little shops in my neighborhood. For instance I always window-shop at Pulver. This shop on Borsigstrasse 33, of the designers collective with the same name, sells its own fashion label and has the most fantastic knitwear.

Sommerladen

A visit to Sommerladen on Linienstrasse 153 is more like visiting an old friend you haven’t seen for a long time. The very nice Johanna Mattner, a stylist, started this shop to sell clothes for her friend and sort of never came out of it. That’s lucky for us because you’ll find designer pieces and accessories, all decently priced. Though mostly vintage, it has nothing to do with those smelly places. Everything is arranged but not too organized. Rooting around here, looking for the next must-have, will definitely bring some excitement to your shopping tour. During the week Joanna is accompanied by her white poodle which my children adore, and she‘s always in to discuss prices.

Arseniko

Another long-time favourite of mine is Arseniko. As ownerNadia Barcella puts it ‘Arseniko has nothing for girlies’. In an interior vaguely reminiscent of a minimalist gallery, this shop on Dircksenstrasse 45 sells the clothes that we envy Italian women for: simply, clearly and utterly elegant. The stock focuses on Italian brands for self-confident women - Divina, Flavio Castellani, and Pas de cliché among others. That last label is one that I really adore, and it’s almost impossible to find elsewhere in Germany.  Besides the Italian fashion, some Scandinavian labels are represented (Hoeyem, Izaak).

In addition to her marvellous taste in clothes, Nadia knows how to wear them. When I come out of the fitting-room picking nervously to whatever I am trying on, one hand of her will work wonders. With the same ease that she chooses garments, she selects accessories, jewellery, bags and of course shoes.  Prices are moderate for the quality and luxury that you’ll find here.

A few days ago, winter finally took over in Berlin and brought its snow and perishing cold. From Thursday to Saturday all the kids were gone, spending their weekend somewhere else. M. suggested the sauna. Sitting in a tremendously hot, damp place is not exactly my idea of leisure, but it was gorgeous.

Photo: Manuela.Martin

Every year in November the Badeschiff on the river Spree transforms from a swimming pool into a Sauna boat. We had a rather adventurous journey getting there, but if you head for the Arena you shouldn’t have any problems. In the last few yards walking between old fabric halls, which were bathed in warm red light, a feeling of suspense and bewilderment came over me. This was enhanced by shouting coming from the Arena edifice. Because the darkness sets in so early now, you can see the Badeschiff from a distance - illuminated and floating like three giant cocoons on the river.

Photo: RogPool

Before entering these cocoons of wellbeing, we had to change in the cabins on the mainland and then run the last icy steps before plunging into the futuristic shape. In the first space a bar provides hot and cold drinks, finger food and lots of magazines. People lie wrapped in white blankets, reading, chatting, listening to the unobtrusive music and otherwise chilling out. The prime spots - those with a view - are of course difficult to snag. It hardly matters because the best is still to come.

Photo: RogPool

Two saunas are located in the next cocoon. The hottest one has a river view and an added bonus: instead of the ordinary cool-down by a cold shower, a dive in the real Badeschiff provides an extraordinary experience. Since there was nobody there I could swim undisturbed in the green glittering water feeling free off all gravity. At each end of the pool you can thrust away the plastic curtains and push yourself a little bit on the basin. There you are in the middle of the starry night overlooking the Spree as far as the eyes can see. 

Feeling warm and comfortable to the last sinew I took consolation in the fact that this is happening only because it’s winter.

WINTER BADESCHIFF AN DER ARENA, Eichenstr. 4, Berlin

Go further: Find out about good places to hang out along the Spree-river during the summer. Just click here.

It's that time of year again in Berlin; the skies are cold and damp, darkness falls early, stays late, and you can't swing a dead cat around here without hitting a Christmas market.  One of the city's most loved holiday traditions; the markets are a time-honored way to lighten the gloom of Berlin's long December nights. This week I tried my luck at a 'traditional' Weihnachtsmarkt in front of Schloss Charlottenburg, on the far side of town.

Even from a distance the market glows invitingly, the twinkling bulbs of the Christmas trees framing the royal palace, festively painted with holiday colors. Crowded with merrymakers of every age wandering along the rows of wooden huts and rustic cabins, the palace's normally staid front lawn takes on the appearance of the small alpine village of Christmas fantasy.

The tiny sizes of the huts belie the wealth of goods they offer. I could have knocked out a good part of my Christmas list had I been in the mood, but I'm an unrepentant last minute shopper so i just browsed through, taking in the holiday cheer, the children's joyful shrieks as they whirled around the antique Christmas carousel or miniature Ferris wheel, and their wide-eyed wonder at the endless selection of toys and trinkets.

There’s plenty to tempt older children like me too. The vendors were laying out long rows of woolen gloves and scarves, fashionable felt hats, hand carved nativity scenes, and holiday house decorations. The stuffed shopping bags and cash changing hands confirm that this tiny alpine village is a one stop shop for every holiday need.

And then there are the edibles - lots and lots of edibles. Eating and drinking is a central part of the Christmas market experience and long lines of red noses circle cabins offering every sort of goulash, grilled beast and, this being Germany, a multitude of wursts. Bloodwursts, Bratwursts and Bockwursts are turning and burning on the grill and, though not a big meat eater, I waited in line like everyone else. There are few things that can warm the belly on a chill winter evening better than a smoked bratwurst slathered in mustard and washed down with a steaming mug of Glühwein, that sweet, warm, intoxicating brew that, as its name implies, adds an extra glow to every Christmas market. Afterwards I treated myself to a paper sac full of hot roasted chestnuts to keep that holiday warmth all the way home.

There are still a couple of weeks to go before the big day and I’m planning to make my way to a few more Christmas markets.  There’s the trendy Weihnachtszauber on the Gendarmenmarkt, the hipster market in Prenzlauer Berg's Kulturbrauerei, the proletarian market at Alexanderplatz with its ice skating rink, and even a Hanukkah Market at the Jewish Museum.  With so many to choose from I'll be able to keep the winter blues at bay and find plenty to marvel at while contemplating the true gifts of this holiday season.

Crossing Bornholmerstrasse on Friday night on my way to meet friends, I found myself walking behind a young woman wearing a short, close-fitting plastic jacket, leggings and ankle boots. It was -3 degrees. I was muffled in a full-length coat resembling a sleeping bag, two tops, a giant cardigan, a thick skirt, thick black tights with socks over the top, wool gloves lined with fleece, a chunky scarf, a knitted hat and knee-length boots. I was still cold. What was this lady's secret? Her outfit left no space for a little Winterspeck, or "winter lard" – that soft, comforting layer of flesh best developed when the cold weather kicks in. Did she have anti-freeze in her veins? Or was she just very, very cold?

The quickest way to get both warm and speck'd if you're not impervious to frost like this lady, is to raid the local Imbiß. You go out, freeze, order some hot food and devour it as you stamp some life into your feet. A standard doener will do, but gentrified Prenzlauer Berg has a better class of lard.

Currywurst und Schampus in the Saturday Kollwitzplatz market have elevated Berlin's humble signature dish, a pork sausage with tomato ketchup and curry powder, into something ludicrously sophisticated. The pommes are served with truffle mayonnaise, and my pick, the "Spezial Currywurst" with creamy mayonnaise and raw red onion, is almost too rich to snarf. The ritziest wurst on offer is their 5€ Currywurst Gold, spiced with 22k gold leaf. Which is just silly. I don't dare eat it in case the next anti-yuppie demo in the Kiez lobs Molotov cocktails through my bedroom window.

For a more down-to-earth dessert there's a van that parks next to the supermarket at the corner of Winstrasse and Marienburg where the quarkkeulchen – balls of deep-fried curd-cheese dough – are perfect: crisp, not oily, and dusted with enough icing sugar to contrast with the sharp taste of the quark.
After that little lot, you're well on your way to a Speckmantel that'll last you the winter, if you don't try and sleep it off and end up hibernating till May.

Go further: Fancy snacking? John Rambow does and has a soft spot for Grand Street is New York. Find out why.