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Oslo

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en af Norway Nomad /  Johanna C. Leahy, 9. sep 2008

 

Here’s the thing. As I live in Oslo, I don’t stay at hotels in the city. There’s a shortage of rooms anyhow, with business travellers clogging up reservations throughout the year.

But when I fantasise about a night away from the kids, of dipping my toe (or all ten of them) into the persona of the carefree tourist, I picture myself emerging from the Grand Hotel’s Sunday Jazz Brunch onto Karl Johans gate, Oslo’s main street, blinking in the glare of the dazzling northern light, and greeting the city on my doorstep.

As its name implies the hotel is very grand. It’s also old (1874) but modernised whilst maintaining its atmosphere of tradition and style. Ibsen used to sip coffee in its café, Nobel laureates overnight there, and I once came across a crowd waiting outside for a glimpse of Tom Cruise and Oprah who were staying there (at the same time but not together, presumably). Needless to say I was above such celebrity-induced lingering and simply walked on straining my neck trying to look backwards just in case they might appear.

Should I opt to leave my husband at home as well as the kids, I’d be tempted to stay on the hotel’s Ladies Floor which, unsurprisingly, is just for ladies. It has thirteen rooms individually designed in collaboration with 13 famous Norwegian women, to ensure a unique aesthetic experience.

The Grand is five-star, prestigious, expensive and almost certainly very posh; worthy of fantasy indeed.

The Grand Hotel, Karl Johans gate 31, Oslo
 

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en af Norway Nomad /  Johanna C. Leahy, 26. aug 2008

Someone told me, when I first moved to Oslo, that the best bread in town came from Åpent Bakeri. Almost four years on, I still haven’t found a better place to relax, sip coffee, and indulge in a delicious piece of bread or pastry.

There are a few Åpent Bakeri outlets in the city, but my favourite has got to be the café at Ulleval Hageby, around 10 minutes walk from Ulleval Stadium’s T-bane stop. A wall of hand-made bread, freshly baked on the premises, makes for a tough decision but I nearly always opt for a piece of muesli bread which, with its nuts, fruit and wholegrain flour would be healthy if it wasn’t for the sheer size of it; this roll is a meal in itself.

If you’re digestive system isn’t up to the high-fibre challenge, I can highly recommend boller (soft, sweet rolls infused with just the right amount of cinnamon), scones with raisins, nuts and a hint of orange zest, or the ever-reliable treat that is pain au chocolat.

The café’s interior is bright and fresh, with black and white tiles on the floor, and snazzy lighting on the wall. However, if the weather is good enough – and Norwegians sit outside even in the cool weather of spring and autumn, using the blankets provided for warmth - the terrace is a must.

It pays to turn up early, as the bread disappears fast, with lots of people doing take-away, and vacant seats at a premium. One advantage of having to queue at the counter is the time it allows for gazing at the glorious bread and making what can be a surprisingly difficult decision.

Åpent Bakeri, Damplassen 24-25, Oslo.

Go further: Read about Masha favourite coffee spots in Moscow. Click here.

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en af Norway Nomad /  Johanna C. Leahy, 23. jul 2008

 

The first time I visited Vigelands Park, a group of Japanese tourists gestured me into having my photo taken with them. I hadn’t the heart or sign language necessary to explain that I wasn’t in fact Norwegian, having just stepped off the plane myself. I assume that that is what they wanted - a picture of a genuine Scandinavian person posing at one of Oslo’s most photographed landmarks.


Photo by gerry.scappaticci

Looking back, I can’t really fathom why these visitors were so keen on getting a picture of a living person in workout gear and baseball cap (and no makeup!) on a Sunday stroll, when the real photo opportunities were the 212 life-like bronze statues in the park.

I still tend to gawp in amazement at the skill it took to create these bronze people; the men and women are fatter and shorter than today’s typical models, and all the more lovable for it.


Photo by Trebz

My favourites are the phallic monolith with human bodies intertwined, the man juggling babies (just like me, but naked), and the angry baby throwing an incredibly life-like tantrum, all without a stitch of clothing on.

I never visit Vigelands Park without a camera, as the bronze people make great photographic subjects, with the weather and light always making a difference. I have to choose my times carefully though when trying to capture arty shots that look great in sepia or black and white; it can be hard to avoid those darn tourists who insist on getting in the way.

Go further: There is no entrance fee at Vigelandsparken. Click here and find other things to see & in Oslo - the world's the priciest capital - that won't ruin your budget.  

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en af Momondo, 13. apr 2008

Around the world, opera increases its popularity by the minute and new impressive operahouses spring up like mushrooms. The latest example is Oslo’s New National Opera House, which was inaugurated on April 12 2008.

The new opera is situated in the Bjorvika harbour area, where its sloping roof rises from the Oslo Fjord itself, and parts of the stage are 16 meters below sea level. The building is drawn by the young wonderboys in Norwegian architecture, Snøhetta, who have won international acclaim for their new national library in Alexandria, Egypt.

The New National Opera House has an impressive opening program, which in the first year offers guest appearences from i.e. the Berliner Philharmonics and Simon Rattle, Cecilia Bartoli, Daniel Barenboim and Lorin Maazel.

Apart from the opera house, Oslo will get another new landmark in 2010, when the city’s new ski jumping hill ‘Holmenkollen Lighthouse’ is expected to be finished.

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en af Momondo, 11. apr 2008

The last month has been harsh for Oslo. The Norwegian capital was announced to be the priciest capital in the world by The Economist and to make bad worse the city was voted the third most boring European city (together with Warsaw) in a survey of some 1.400 travelers conducted by TripAdvisor. At Momondo, we think Oslo has gotten too much of a rough treatment and in solidarity with the Norwegian capital, we have selected 7 things to see and do in Oslo, which should keep you entertained and won’t ruin your budget.

Get an Oslo Pass 

Buy an Oslo Pass. It provides free travel on all public transport, free admission to many museums and sights and discounts on selected activities including restaurants.

See Oslo from the tram 


Photo by  MalinMark

Jump on a tram with your Oslo Pass. Trams are a good way to give you a general view of Oslo. Especially line 12 starting in Kjeldsaas, which takes you through Oslo’s most interesting neighborhoods and passes by some of the city’s most interesting architecture. If you’re still in the mood for public transport, take line 19 on your way back and you’ve pretty much seen the best parts of Oslo.

The National Museum and the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art 

 
Tideman and Gude 'Brudeferden i Hardanger'  (Photo: The National Museum)

The National Museum and the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art are definitely worth visiting if you’re into contemporary art, design and architecture. All the exhibitions are for free. The National Museum actually consists of several institutions: The National Gallery, The Museum of Decorative Arts and Design, The Museum of Contemporary Art and The National Museum – Architecture.

The Vigeland Park 


Photo by Photojenni

In the famous Vigeland Park you can combine fresh air and fine arts – for free. It is the biggest sculpture park in Europe and is home to a magnificent sculpture collection of 212 pompous and very lifelike sculptures of men, women and children placed on an 850 meters long axis. The sculptures are at once intense, repelling and fascinating and all of them are modeled by the Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland.

Train number 12 goes from the city and directly to the park.

Island jumping in Oslo Fjord


Photo by Elin B

The islands in the Oslo Fjord are a must during the summer and offer beautiful and clean nature and excellent bathing spots (the temperature of the water won’t appeal to the faint-hearted). There are some 40 islands and it takes 10-30 minutes to reach them by ferries of which many are part of the public transport system. The largest island is Hovedeoya and it can be reached by Ferry 92 and 93 from Vippetangen.

Hiking in Nordmarka 


Photo from Turweb

Do as the Norwegians: Go hiking! Nordmarka is an enourmous forest area just 15 minuttes with the metro (T-banen) outside the center of Oslo. It is also popular for skiing, fishing, hunting, canoing and other outdoor activities. A trip to Nordmarka is not only cheap, it also makes you feel ridiciously healthy!

Affordable accommodation


Anker Hotel

Accommodation in Oslo is often something that takes a serious dent into your cash balance, but it is actually possible to stay overnight in the city without having to ask for a loan in your bank. Try for exampel Anker Hostel, which is a modern and cosy hostel in the center of Oslo or the old military hotel, Perminalen Hotel, just behind the Norwegian parliament in the heart of Oslo.

To get the complete budget guide to Oslo click here [PDF]

 

Author David Rich

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